Chanel Date Codes Explained

At Adore Vintage, we believe that understanding the history behind a Chanel piece is just as important as its beauty. One of the most reliable ways to identify the production period of a Chanel handbag is through its date code, also known as the Chanel serial number.

This guide explains what Chanel date codes are, where to find them, how to read them, and what they tell you about your bag, with a clear breakdown by era. Whether you are buying, selling, or collecting, this knowledge is essential when navigating the world of vintage Chanel.

What Is a Chanel Date Code?

A Chanel date code is a serial number placed inside the bag that indicates when the item was produced. Chanel began using serial number stickers in the mid‑1980s to help track production and combat counterfeiting.

Chanel handbags produced before 1986 do not have date codes. For these earlier pieces, authenticity is determined by construction, materials, stitching, hardware, and overall craftsmanship rather than a serial number.

Where to Find the Chanel Date Code

Depending on the production year, the date code may appear in different forms:

1. A serial number sticker attached directly to the lining
2. A sticker on a leather tab sewn into the interior
3. A metal plate linked to an embedded microchip (newer bags)

The sticker is usually located in an interior corner, inside a pocket, or along a seam.

Image reference: Madisonavenuecouture

Chanel Date Codes by Era

1. 1986–2005: 7‑Digit Serial Numbers

From 1986 until the early 2000s, Chanel used 7‑digit serial numbers. The first digit provides a general indication of the production period.

First Digit	Production Years
0	1986–1988
1	1989–1991
2	1991–1994
3	1994–1996
4	1996–1997
5	1997–1999
6–9	2000–2005

These early stickers typically feature a holographic overlay and were paired with a matching authenticity card.

2. 2005–2021: 8‑Digit Serial Numbers

As Chanel expanded production, the brand transitioned to 8‑digit serial numbers. During this period, the first two digits indicate the approximate year of manufacture.

First Two Digits	Production Years
10	2005–2006
11	2006–2007
12	2008
13	2009
14	2010
15	2011
16	2012
17	2013
18	2013–2014
19	2014
20	2014–2015
21	2015–2016
22	2016–2017
23	2017
24	2017–2018
25	2018
26	2018–2019
27–29	2019–2020
30–31	2020–2021

This era represents the most common date codes found in the pre‑owned market today and is especially relevant for vintage and resale buyers.

 

3. 2021–Present: Microchip Authentication

In 2021, Chanel discontinued serial number stickers and authenticity cards entirely. All new bags now feature an embedded microchip, discreetly hidden within the structure of the bag.

Instead of a sticker, you will find a small metal plate inside the bag. The microchip can only be read using Chanel’s internal scanning system and contains production and authentication data.

Image reference: Madisonavenuecouture

Do Chanel Date Codes Guarantee Authenticity?

A Chanel date code alone does not guarantee authenticity. It should always be evaluated alongside:

1. Stitch count and alignment
2. Leather quality and structure
3. Hardware weight, engraving, and plating
4. Logo shape and spacing
5. Overall craftsmanship

Counterfeit bags may include fake serial numbers, which is why professional evaluation is essential.

Why Chanel Date Codes Matter

Understanding Chanel date codes helps you:

1. Accurately date a Chanel bag
2. Verify whether details match the correct production era
3. Better assess market value and collectability
4. Make informed buying and selling decisions

For collectors, date codes also offer insight into Chanel’s design evolution and production history.